rob answers:

From what I have read I would definitely choose the Canon Rebel t1i over the Canon 40D. The price difference is not very much. The 40D is rated at 10.1MP while the t1i is rated at 15.1MP. All of the specs that I have seen the t1i beats the 40D hands down.

rob answers:

No, that’s a downgrade.

If you sell the T1i you lose $300 to gain $300 to buy flashes. So you’re right back where you started. Just save up the money to buy lenses or flashes for the T1i.

rob answers:

Bokeh is actually the Japanese word for idiot (blurry thinking), I think your talking about ‘Selective Focus’ where the background is blurred, but the subject is sharp.

To do that use Aperture Priority, set the widest aperture you can (lowest f number), the camera will set the appropriate shutter speed.

The effect is more pronounced when you are close to the subject, and/or you use a wide aperture lens.

Chris

rob answers:

It will not mount directly. You can mount via an adapter, (something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Adapter-Fits-Pentax-PK-K-Lens-Canon-EOS-Camera-new-/130554707633?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e65aabeb1 ) but it will be all manual for both the camera and lens.

Keep in mind that lenses do not cross brands… Canon for Canon, Nikon for Nikon, and never the twain shall meet. Companies like Sigma and Tamron and Tokina make multiple versions of their lenses, to fit on the various mounts. Same rules apply, you must have the lens made to fit your camera.

Using a lens from another mount via an adapter is not the best use of your gear, although I do understand the reasoning. Not everyone has deep pockets and unlimited budgets for toys!

rob answers:

There is no way you can totally prevent dust within the lens.
Chances are, the dust that is showing up in your pictures are those stuck on the sensor, not in the lens itself. Try getting a blower and gently blowing the sensor.

If you can’t get the dust off the sensor with just a blower alone, I suggest you leave it and leave it to a professional to clean it for you. If you are certain that the dust showing up in your pics are the result of dust in the lens, that lens would need to be dissembled to be cleaned (again, leave this to a professional).

rob answers:

I had similar needs as you do, and the rebel works just fine for me.

rob answers:

First, it sounds as if you are confusing medium format cameras with “Lomo” cameras (they are not the same thing, although there are medium format lomo cameras, just as there are medium format SLR cameras and medium format digital cameras).

Second, wide angle has to do with the lens, not the format (there are wide angle lenses for 35mm photography as well as wide angle lenses for medium format photography). The lens might behave differently on a different format camera.

If by “effect” you are referring to the “Lomo” effect, then you would need to get a lomo camera. A digital camera (such as your canon) does not make those effects (unless it happens to have some creative setting). Or you can try doing it in photoshop.

As far as the lens being able to work with your camera, well, read the first review.

rob answers:

They are very different cameras in one way. The T1i has an extended ISO range, so shooting in low light will be easier.

Http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/586%7C0/(appareil2)/270%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Canon

If you learn how to pick shutter speeds fast enough to prevent camera movement, an IS lens is only really useful with lenses longer than 100 mm or if you are shooting in very dark areas and upping the ISO to 12,800 still produces too low a shutter speed to hand hold the camera without introducing blur.

rob answers:

Addressing your concerns first: live view is not really important unless you’re doing a whole lot of macro photograpy (where you would other lie flat on your stomach with the viewfinder) Most of the live view systems implements in dslrs aren’t really up to par to compacts anyway- having a slow frame rate, klunky performance, etc. Most pros don’t care about live view. Megapixels don’t mean a thing. Seriously. Unless you’re shooting at below VGA resolution, the camera should be perfectly capable of printing out 4x6s. Read this: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/mpmyth.htm

On terms of other features, both cameras offer very similar performance that isn’t worth mentioning on paper. Nikons are known for better ergonomics and menu system, which should be taken into consideration if you rather not fiddle around trying to look for what you want. The d40 is cheaper too, meaning you can spend more on lens, flash, accessories in the future if you ever consider upgrading.

rob answers:

Canon.

And I’m not a Canon user, so I’m not biased in their direction. But since you only gave me the option of Canon or Sony, Canon.

There’s better glass available for the Canon hands down. Additionally, I don’t like Sony memory cards as they’re overpriced and underpowered. (Oh…sorry…the A200 uses Compact Flash. Still, I prefer SD cards over CF, and that is a personal bias.)

rob answers:

You will probably find both cameras are identical,the rebel xsi is produced for sale in the American/Canadian markets,while the 450d will be for the British /European markets ,they used to have a canon 1000fn in the UK,but in the USA it was called the rebel something,hope this helps, both should be good cameras ,I myself have the canon 60 d which was about one of the first digital slr to come on the market and I find it a very good camera and its only a 6mp which is fine for doing pictures upto A3 and still give good results.

rob answers:

It should, but I haven’t tried it myself. This is an optical slave unit that is supposed to be able to sync to any built-in flash, including the one in your Canon.

You could also look for the “YN-460″ flash, which also has the optical slave and full manual power control, which is what you need to control the flash off camera. Otherwise, it will fire at full power.

rob answers:

Where are you going to eventually live? Cameras usually last about twenty years … At least. The technology in the 450D will be old in about five years, so the camera will outlive its technical value. Buy where you live … Or where you will be using your camera.

Only you know where you will be spending most of your time over the next five or six years. For me that would be the deciding factor

rob answers:

I own a Nikon D60. My officemate owns a Canon 450D.

* Kit lens for both is 18 – 55 mm. Image Stabilizer (Canon) or Vibration Reduction (Nikon) included. The D40 doesn’t have VR on its kit lens.

* I don’t know the difference but sensor for the 450D is CMOS. D40 or D60 uses a CCD sensor.

* As you have said, 450D is more expensive than D60.

* 450D has live view. D40 or D60 does not. Live view is using your LCD monitor to compose your pictures just like a point and shoot.

* LCD monitor of 450D is 3″. For the D40 or D60, it’s just 2.5″.

* 450D has 12.2 megapixels. D40 has 6.1 MP (I think) and D60 has 10.2 MP.

* 450D has an integrated cleaning system for the sensor. D40 doesn’t have one. D60, however, has it (called Dust Reduction System by Nikon).

I don’t remember anything else at the moment but I can say that it is quite unfair to compare the 450D to the D40 or even a D60 since the latter 2 are entry level models of Nikon. As far as I know, the Canon’s entry level model is the EOS 1000D (comparable to the D60).

rob answers:

The XTi can shoot RAW, also. You can compare them here—

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_eos400d%2Ccanon_eos450d&show=all

If you are looking at the XSi mainly for the live view, it really isn’t that important, because you would probably rarely use it. No one holds a DSLR out in front of them to shoot a picture, so you would have to put it on a tripod. Just depends on how often you use a tripod.

I have the XTi and it is a great camera. I would suggest that you go to a good camera store and handle both of these. See which one is easiest for you to use, and which really has the features best for you. Ask questions, and you will know the right one for you when you hold it in your hands.

rob answers:

If you are only in high school, probably you should limit the choices to the T3 or T3i at a lower price range.

Of course 7D and 5D are both great cameras, but you may want to save some money for a better lens instead. I would pick T3i over T2i because you have mentioned about filming in your question. The T3i has the vari-angle LCD, which is good for filming.

Not sure how much of experience you have in photography, if you don’t have a lot of experience, you may want to start with T3 at a lower price range.

After all, the Lenses are somewhat more important than the camera body itself.

You can check out http://www.thephotoforum.com/ in the US to chat with photography enthusiasts too.

rob answers:

Canon EOS Rebel T3i Review (EOS 600D)
http://dslr.bz/canon-eos-rebel-t3i/

rob answers:

No one can tell you that but Canon. The t2i is touted as an excellent camera. One of the cameras I own, a t1i, is also excellent. Talk to Canon about the price. One thing is the articulated screen.
These things aren’t cheap to make.

rob answers:

You do know that you will be spending several thousand dollars if you get everything you want to, right?

Between the two cameras (T3i and D5100) it is a matter of what feels best to you. I am pretty sure only the nikon has autofocus during video, however.

A true underwater housing for a DSLR will cost you AT LEAST $1500, NOT INCLUDING any lens ports, and those will cost another $500+ for a single lens

macro lenses depend on what exactly you wish to shoot. What is your definition of a “close up?”
here are the lenses being sold for Nikon and Canon
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Brand_Nikon&Ntt=macro+lens&N=4291570227+4291315846

rob answers:

One is not significantly better than the other. The differences will be slight when it comes to actual use. Always remember, the photographer and lenses have more to do with the final image than the camera. The questions you need to ask yourself are:
1. Am I shooting a lot of video and stills? Maybe the Nikon.
2. Will I use the Canon lenses I already have? Nikon won’t use your Canon lenses. It will take a total re-investment of lenses. If you already have a bunch of Canon lenses, stick with Canon.
3. You may want to add a Sony camera to your list of options.

rob answers:

Aside from quick release, a good hand strap or neck strap need to have proper padding to distribute the weight so that the strap will not eat into the hand or neck when the user is carrying a big heavy lens.

Remember Function must come before style, if it does not do the function, it is not a good design. It does not matter how stylist it is.

rob answers:

My Canon is a Rebel XTi, 4 years old, but I do still have the strap. It is 20 1/2 inches long as in those directions, but the width is 1 9/16. Just a tad over the 1 1/2 the directions say.

I absolutely hate that strap! I bought another one when I got the camera. It was only about $12 and is a little stretchy and soft on my neck.

rob answers:

Lay the strap flat, with the Canon logo downwards. Place the camera infront of it with the lens facing away from you. Pick the strap up and turn it over to check the writing is the right way round (it should be the right way up as you look at it from this angle). Put the strap back down.

Take the left hand end of the strap, without twisting it, feed it upwards through the hole for it on the left of the camera. Feed it back through the two fittings, following the line it already takes. This just doubles up the strap through each of the fittings, holding it in place.

There is no need to put a twist into the strap at any point.

Repeat the process on the right hand side. Up and through, loop round, through the two fittings. Once its done check everything is tight before trusting the strap with your new camera.

rob answers:

I haven’t used the 20D but I use it’s predecessor the 10D daily for my business. It has been an absolute tank. Tank = good. I can tell you that any “rebel” model is a consumer model. Any “D” model is going to be geared towards more professional use. What does that mean? It means when you pick up a 10D, 20D, 30D, etc. And then you pick up a Rebel you will instantly see that the Rebel is more “plasticky” vs. The D series cameras. The D series cameras are going to be water resistant and built to withstand elements and harsher use much more than the Rebels do. Are the Rebels good cameras? Sure they are. Will the D series cameras last longer and hold value better. If they don’t it’s only because so many consumers don’t know much about them and they aren’t as prevalent as the Rebels are among consumers. For durability go with the D series camera bodies. The Rebel XS is a 10.1 mp vs. The 20D’s 8.2 so that may make a bit of difference to you if you just have to have those extra 2 mp. But compare the XS or XSi prices with the 30D too. The 6.2 mp 10D I shoot with now can be bought for $200 all day long. When released it was around $2000 so any digital eventually plummets. Some very nice cameras that were extremely pricey when released can be had for very nice prices. Ask about “actuation” count when you buy one. You can do google searches for estimated shutter life on differing models. Seems the D series shutters are rated better than the Rebels but I’ve not checked it in a long time.

Go to Canons site and you can compare about anything they sell. Here are some links for the two you’re inquiring about.

Specs and reviews for the XS: http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=139&modelid=17316

Specs and reviews for the 20D: http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&tabact=ModelFeaturesTabAct&fcategoryid=215&modelid=10464

rob answers:

The original Canon straps (and in fact any camera manufacturers straps) are always uncomfortable and scratchy. I ditched the one on my Canon 40D after a couple of weeks and bought an Op/Tech Pro Strap (pictured here)..

Http://chili-pix.ch/shop/images/_MG_4940.jpg

Not only are they unbelievably comfortable, they help to reduce the weight of the camera making it feel a lot lighter than with the kit strap that camera with your camera.

I think it cost me about £18 and is worth every penny, trust me it’s worth it.

.

rob answers:

There are many, many lenses you can buy for the T1i.

The lens it comes with is the EF 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens.

With compatible lenses, any lenses with the prefix EF or EF-S will work. Additionally, not only does Canon make lenses, but third party manufacturers like Sigma and Tamron make pretty decent lenses as well. When buying from a third party manufacturer though, make sure the lens has the EF or EF-S prefix.

rob answers:

I have a t1i as well as an XS. My main lens, that I’m extremely pleased with is the Canon 28-200.
It’s $400 but worth every penny.

rob answers:

Learn about your camera !!!!

Read your manual !!!! Read it several times, and practice in between.

Attend a class, read some books, read/watch online tutorials.

The major camera manufacturers (like Canon, Nikon, Olympus etc) all have very useful sections on their website for learning about photography.

Http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=HomePageAct

http://www1.nikonusa.com/slrlearningcenter/index.php

http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/oima_learn_center.asp

Understanding at least the basic principles of photography (as well as being familiar with your camera) will enable you to make the most of your gear, and will make a HUGE difference to your images.

rob answers:

For picture quality, no. To the untrained eye, you won’t see that much difference in picture quality. As long as you know how to correctly handle a camera, you can get great results on any DSLR

rob answers:

Ebay is a good place to be, bid at the last moment, at the highest price you’re willing to pay (559) and you’ll probably win.
You can try to look for used camera dealerships around your town, those usually have better deals.

However, the difference between a used camera and new camera in price is not that big (especially if it is new/ past two years) usually only a 10% difference.

It’s like saying you want to buy a mercedes benz 2008 model used for 10k.

Consider second hand 40d. It has a better build quality. Unless you HAVE TO HAVE VIDEO, i woudl recommend the 40d.

Http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_EOS_40D-vs-Canon_EOS_Rebel_T1i

the comparison is in favor of the T1i, but the advantages of the T1i are negligible (lighter?, smaller?)
the 40d can be picked up (Body only) for about 300-400 bucks. Spend the remaining money on a $100 50 1.8 and save the rest for a pro lens (L series lens with the cool red rings)

rob answers:

Best way to know—go to an electronic store (like Best Buy) and try it out for yourself.

The T3i is a small beginner’s DSLR, and is too small for a person with larger hands like me. Or maybe you like the small size. It just depends on what you want, and what your budget can afford.

And as for lens, you should get the standard 18-55mm kit lens. What lens you get after that, depends on what you like to shoot. But I suggest a “nifty fifty” 50mm f/1.8 lens as a second lens, just to play with a prime lens and to help understand depth of field.

rob answers:

You can forget concerts. They won’t even allow you in the door with a dslr and if they catch you using it in the concert they’ll escort you from the building and may take your memory card… Not a good thing. Dslr cameras are considered professional and there are copy right laws you know.

Music, groups? Well I like the Canon. I have a t1i and I volunteer for a Relay for Life event where I live and got excellent night video with no noise. There is a noise suppression setting on the camera and that really helps.

rob answers:

Http://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=canon_eos600d&products=nikon_d5100

Side by side comparison by one of the most trusted reviewing websites. Pick the one that best fits your needs.

rob answers:

The lens will make 10x the difference in your pictures than the body. Sure the T3i is better but not by enough to warrant not getting great glass. The 50mm f/1.4 is a great choice as well and will last you a long time. I would always prefer to buy a better lens than a better body. You will notice the difference immediately. You may look at the T2i as well which has almost all the features of the T3i minus wireless flash and the articulating screen mostly yet is a little better than the T3. But either way, make sure you spend your money on the glass. If you don’t care about video, you could pick up a used Canon 50D for cheap (very professional body) and the 50mm f/1.4. It would be difficult to beat that quality.
Http://www.learningcameras.com

rob answers:

The best advice I can give you now that you have gotten that far is to go to a store that carries both and play with them. One will feel right and one won’t.

A note on the T3i-it is the same sensor as the T2i. If you don’t need the articulating screen on the T3i the T2i is a savings of about $100.

The D5100 is an awesome camera. My only drawback on it is that it doesn’t have the auto focus motor in the body. THat means that you have to purchase the AF-s lenses. That can quickly add up in $ to the point that the D7000 would have been the more economical decision. The D7000 is a mighty impressive camera and I’d go with it over the T3i-and I am a canon shooter!

rob answers:

In general still cameras that take video are a compromise and the video quality is rarely better than OK.
The Rebel T1i and T2i ( the 500D and 550D) are the next upgrades from your XSi and I understand they take good video.

However, as others have said you will take a big drop selling your XSi and the difference to the next model will probablty buy you a decent mid-range camcorder that will probably take better video.

Only issue then is that you have to carry 2 cameras around with you…

rob answers:

Once the lens is on MF, you turn the front part of the lens, NOT the zoom ring.

rob answers:

With SLR cameras, they will tell you what sort of exposure, aperture etc it uses for auto mode. However, in manual mode, you will usually have to set the aperture and shutter time – if you don’t do this, then yes, the photo can be either dark or over exposed.

I suggest that you read up on this with the manual, and maybe try a priority mode like aperture priority. I don’t have a Canon DSLR but have a Sony one – most of the features are quite similar. You may also need to set the iso equivalence too. A lower iso means longer shutter speeds are needed, and a high iso will need shorter shutter speeds, but then more noise. In manual mode, it may remember what it was last set to, but my Sony resets to a default – which is a bit of a pain, but have to live with it.

Good luck.

[Edit]
I just saw your update. -2 is two f stops, which means you would have to increase your exposure. To set it, you press and hold the Av+- button, then scroll to 0 (to the right). Page 78 of the english manual.

[Edit2]
The Av+- button – you need to press it down and leave it down, while using your index finger to move the scroll wheel, then it should show on the lcd what is being changed. You may have to be in one of the manual modes to do this.

rob answers:

It may be that you are shooting in dark conditions or you are too close to the subject that it is unable to focus correctly.

Hope this helps!

rob answers:

It changes color to green, I think.

You will most likely run into other questions. Better to read the whole manual first before you take the first shot.

rob answers:

They are working on it. I’ve used it on other cameras, and it truly adds a lot to basic functionality, including shutter speed overrides like those you’ve mentioned – these vary with the mechanical specs of the camera:

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/A2200

rob answers:

Canon G9 also supports RAW.

rob answers:

It has nothing to do with picture quality. All it does is enable some features.

rob answers:

Why don’t you just buy a new (and better) camera, instead of fantasizing about trying to improve a crappy Kodak camera that was released at least 2 1/2 years ago?

rob answers:

The very cool CHDK hack kit (http://chdk.wikia.com/) doesn’t work with the S50. This is too bad. I don’t know of any hacks available for the S50 so it looks like you’re out of luck!

rob answers:

First, owning a Canon t1i, I know a little about shooting video with a Canon dslr.

One, everything on the camera, save for focus, goes full auto when you’re shooting video. There are no settings to make. Regardless of where you have the camera set for stills all that goes away in video. You can switch off the lens auto focus and do it manually – that’s it. One thing I have noticed however is that if you set your noise suppression to “strong”, it seems to really help with video noise as well. I shot some dancers dressed in black in silhouette. Their cloths, in the shot, are the most beautiful solid, clean black I’ve seen on a computer screen. Yes I have my noise suppression at
“strong”.

Second this camera, like most consumer dslr cameras uses a cmos sensor. Fast movement will blur the shot or cause it to perhaps skip a frame. I know because I’ve done it. It’s interesting to see this happen. I don’t know if it’s the sensor catching up to what I’m doing or if it’s in the buffer. I do know that you can see it while shooting – it appears on the screen.

For instance, I was following a go cart type racer. Come to me, going away fine. Panning with the car as it quickly went by caused a frame to skip – not every time but enough to give me a headache.

Your best bet is to let your subjects do all the moving. Sitting on a tripod, subject in the frame and moving – absolutely find HD video – in fact, even panning it’s excellent video except for the skip.

The following day I was at a location where I needed my tripod. I did the steady shots I wrote about above and ended up with very nice, solid, clear video.

So, good luck.

rob answers:

Are you looking for a kit or just the body? You could have gave us your budget as well!

You can have the body for 699 at B&H here http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/753760-REG/Canon_5169B001_EOS_Rebel_T3i_Digital.html

You could put a 50mm 1.8 for 120$ http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12142-USA/Canon_2514A002_Normal_EF_50mm_f_1_8.html

This would be a great start.

Or you could buy an older body and put better lens on it, like the 500D body for 594$ (its a good camera) http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/613611-REG/Canon_3818B001_EOS_Rebel_T1i_Digital.html

and put a tamron 24-75 2.8 for 500$ on it http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/284399-REG/Tamron_AF09C700_28_75mm_f_2_8_XR_Di.html

or a tamron 17-50 2.8 like this one for 460$ http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/423714-REG/Tamron_AF016C700_17_50mm_f_2_8_XR_Di.html

or 50mm 1.8 like above.

rob answers:

Hey,

Be happy you get a bit, many of us never got nothing

There’s a Canon EOS T2i, with the exact same sensor, just no articulating screen. It’s around $100 less, which means you get the same camera but quicker!

Here’s a DSLR Buying Guide – http://www.the-dslr-photographer.com/2009/11/which-dslr-to-buy/

rob answers:

I’m going to disagree with Jens on one point here. The “flash gimmick” in this case is the inclusion of wireless flash control, built into the camera. That’s a relatively new feature for Canon but, Nikon has done it for years in most of their DSLR camera bodies.

It’s not something that “hardly anyone needs.” Hardly used by amateurs is probably right but, it is in fact a feature commonly used in advanced photography as a cheap way to control off camera lighting. I freqently use this feature for company portraits shot on location rather than a studio as well as architectural shoots for both design studios and real estate companies. Most of my friends use this feature extensively because the closest alternative to this capability involves costly radio triggers like PocketWizards (I’ve got those too).

I’ll say this; I think the T3i is probably the best Rebel Canon has made so far. I’d also say that if you are a young pro shooting a 7D as your main camera, the T3i is a worthy backup body if you can’t afford a second 7D or 60D but, don’t want to give up all the capabilities of your primary body when going to a backup.

Edit:
I get where Jens is coming from but, my experience with Canon’s wireless system (optical trigger) has been very positive. To me, the cost of adding even the cheapest radio triggers and then finding a flash that allows manual power settings is still comparable to simply using the built-in transmitter of the camera to control two or more 430EXIIs. And now we have the 320EX which is an even cheaper option for a remote flash.

Yes, it’s an optical system that is less than optimal outdoors at distances exceeding twenty five feet but, I don’t often need anything more than fill-flash for my outdoor shoots. If I need to pack light to shoot on location as I often do for office portraits and some architecture stuff, the Canon wireless system tends to be more than sufficient. I’ll readily admit that if I have the option, I go with PocketWizards and studio strobes but, now we really are talking about some expensive equipment. Of course, none of this matters to someone just starting out because you have to get through camera basics before you start worrying about complex lighting.

I guess my view is that I’d rather have the capability and not need it than later discover I need it and have to go buy more equipment to add it. Again, as someone shooting a 7D, the T3i makes perfect sense as a “cheaper” backup that retains all the same wireless flash capabilities and the same image quality. If that’s not important to you, I’d go all the way back to a used Rebel XSi which I think still the best crop sensor Canon ever made and spend the difference on higher quality glass.

rob answers:

You’re probably using the kit lens. Your options are to light the scene better or get a better low light lens. There is no “always” about shutter speed setting, just some general rules (search 180 degree shutter rule). See the basic DSLR video tutorials they have here for more details on shutter speed and ISO: http://vimeo.com/videoschool

You may want to pick up a lens that lens that lets more light in. Two good ones are the Canon 50mm/f1.8 or f/1.4 (huge price difference) and the Sigma 30mmf/1.4. They don’t zoom, but they let a lot of light in, and are great for filming in dimly lit situations.

Watch those tutorials, and you’ll learn a bunch about the basics.

rob answers:

The T2 is a 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera.

The “D” in front of the SLR means Digital.

35mm cameras are what most photographers learn to use before getting into digital imagery. Most photo classes start students using film to learn the skills of being a photographer before introducing the digital aspect.

rob answers:

Yes. The idea behind the EOS system is that it’s a system – lenses can be interchanged.

rob answers:

Http://www.usa.canon.com/app/pdf/d_eos/EOSREBELT2_manual.pdf

a

rob answers:

Yes. (They call it the “EOS Kiss 7″ in Japan!)

rob answers:

To actually answer your question…

The Canon Rebel XTi is a near clone of the T2 that you fell in love with. If they were side-by-side, at first glance, you’d have a hard time telling them apart. There are some difference in any digital vs. Film camera comparison, but their features are very similar as well.

rob answers:

I have something like this for the Pentax except mine does not have a lens.

Http://cgi.ebay.com/CANON-DSLR-SLR-CAMERA-LENS-ADAPTER-4-23-30MM-MICROSCOPE_W0QQitemZ260561745414QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3caab0b606

Yes. Mine is exactly a tube that slides over the microscope (eyepiece removed). The camera mounts directly (without a lens) on the adapter.

rob answers:

You first need to make sure that the memory card you are using is formatted to your camera and that it’s a fast enough speed class (Class 10 for full HD).

Then you also need to THOROUGHLY read the…Shooting Movies…section of your Instruction Manual, starting on page 121. When you get to page page 125 you will see that you can shoot still photos while recording a movie, so maybe that’s what you’ve been experiencing? If you read that, then you’ll know what you’ve been doing wrong, won’t you?

Good luck…

rob answers:

That “wide angle lens” screws on like a filter would to the end of your normal lens. If you look at the end of your lenses, they will specify a filter size (such as Φ52mm, Φ58mm, Φ72mm). The one you bought is a 58mm, so it would need to go on something like the 18-55mm kit lens (it uses a Φ58mm filter) or your 55-250mm.

The 50mm is Φ52mm size.

rob answers:

The rebels are not considered “professional” cameras, but they are a solid entry level DSLR.

I understand that you’re intently focused on your choice of camera, but what is actually MORE important is your lenses.

Bodies come and go, they get upgraded. Lenses stay with us for (hopefully) very many years. If you’re in a big buying rush, you’ll probably buy cheap lenses and I can pretty much guarantee you that you will come to regret that move pretty quickly.

Concentrate your efforts on buying only REALLY good (and fast) lenses.
Also keep in mind that there will be many other expenses, too. You’ll want and/or need a few other things such as tripod, filters, a bag, sensor cleaning gear, a second battery, memory cards, perhaps a remote shutter release etc.

That’s just the small stuff – I can assure you that you’ll want more and more lenses.
You’ll also want a decent flash some day.

See how that list just goes on and on?
Owning a DSLR isn’t cheap – at least not until you have built up a nice stash of gear.

Just some food for thought……..

rob answers:

All cameras are the same and work the same with a few little differences

watch tutorials on basic camera control: iso, white balance, shutter speed, apperture

brand and model mean nothing really,

rob answers:

Just curious, how come you can’t just put it in manual, give yourself the largest aperature available, turn the ISO up, give yourself a faster shutter speed and you won’t be blurry or need a tripod.

rob answers:

Try taking pics with shallow depth of field (one object in focus, rest blurred) – for an arty effect.

To do that you either position yourself close to the object you want in focus – with your camera set to “P” (program automatic) – everything else will tend to blur. Or, use your “A” (aperture priority mode) setting – with the aperture open as wide as your lens will allow (e.g., small aperture number) and focus on the object, near or far, that you want to be in focus. The rest should blur out so that your key subject pops.

Good luck! You can find good photog books that teach you different tech features to try out – with aperture, shutter speed, exposure, composition.

rob answers:

Hi Chase,

The shutter speed can be changes in Tv mode. Tv mode will let you change the shutter speed (scroll wheel) and the camera will adjust all of the other values for you manually (as far as it can). Manual mode (M) gives you control over everything.

Av mode will give you control over your aperture, and I think it is slightly more popular than Tv mode for general shooting. A low aperture value will likely automatically give you the fastest available shutter speed in that situation. Also remember you can increase your ISO to get a faster shuter speed (at the cost of extra noise).

I hope this helps,

John

http://www.flickr.com/johnhanam

rob answers:

Not sure if this is your specific user guide but instructions are on page 63-64.

Http://media.the-digital-picture.com/Owners-Manuals/Canon-EOS-Rebel-XS-1000D-Owners-Manual.pdf

Other things that may affect continuois shooting are if you are shooting in automatic mode and the flash pops up.

I’m surprised at the speed limitation though. I have a Nikon D3000 and it will shoot on 3 frames per second in RAW.

rob answers:

Although there are several DSLRs with Live VIew your Canon XS is NOT one of them.

rob answers:

Yes but with a whole lot of restrictions.

Http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/canon_fd_eos_adapters.html

If you don’t already have a bunch of FD lenses, just buy some good used EF or EF-S lenses

rob answers:

ANY brand that specifies Canon mount.EF etc.
Will do just fine.

rob answers:

Many DSLR cameras have the option as a kit to come with a short zoom and I am certain that is true of the Canon Rebels. I see the with 18-55mm IS Lens offered with the XSi Rebel for about $565. I would go with that lens to start, shoot a whole bunch of photos and learn what else you need or desire. I teach photography and I have had many students discover they wanted a macro lens but had no idea until they started shooting and learning. Some some a telephoto zoom lens because that can be helpful for certain needs (sports and wildlife often for example). So wait and discover as your learn and create.

I included some links to some dealers so that you can try and get the best price. Some dealers have some some nice extras, free shipping is very common, and sometimes they are offering a free memory card and/or camera bag. Sometimes you have to click in the “add to cart” button to see the actual price.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Mark

rob answers:

18-55 mm and 55-250 mm will give you the most coverage with the least pain to your savings account. The 28-135 mm is just not wide enough for shooting the amazing buildings found in the quaint towns throughout Europe.

If you can, save for the 18-200 mm IS lens. It is very versatile and you will not have to be changing lenses all the time. This will protect your sensor from dust intrusion. I use the Nikon version for almost all my editorial work.

When shooting travel assignments, I carry a 10-24 mm wide angle zoom and 18-200 mm VR. Those two lenses cover about 90% of what I may want to shoot. I also carry a 60 mm macro lens which comes in handy when shooting details of some subjects.

rob answers:

EF and EFS. Also, Sigma make the best aftermarket lenses. Next is Tamron. Don’t buy quantaray (Ritz/Wolfcamera crap)

rob answers:

Yes they will

Except for the EF-S lenses, you can use any EOS lens on any Canon EOS camera. EF-S lenses will damage 35 mm and full frame Canon cameras mirrors

rob answers:

Depends on your budget and exactly what focal length you prefer:

$300 – EF 50mm f/2.5
$450 – EF-S 60mm f/2.8
$530 – EF 100mm f/2.8
$1000 – EF 100mm f/2.8L IS

Those are just rough estimates of the prices I pulled out of my memory, so it’s best to double check them although they should be relatively close.

rob answers:

You can use your 75-300 mm at 300 mm. The exposure is 1/ISO at f/16 so you can hand hold the shot. Be sure to have your focus set at infinity. You may want to bracket a little. Depending upon where you are in the world, f/16 may give you too much exposure

At 300 mm the moon will still only fill about a fifth of the cameras frame, but if you shoot using RAW, you can crop a lot of the sky out later.

I bought an adapter so I can mount my camera on my telescope … That worked the best.

rob answers:

There’s no reason to take the lens off. It can actually be a bad idea because each time you remove it can allow dust to enter the camera & land on the sensor or mirror.

rob answers:

Yes. The Rebel was an autofocus camera, and those lenses will work on the Canon DSLR cameras. The older Canon manual focus lenses will not even mount.