rob answers:

No, but it is better to do those kinds of color effects in a photo editing program, whether it be converting a photo to B&W, sepia, or doing selective coloring. This is because you can have the original copy of the photo as well as the edited copy just in case.

And here’s program where you can do selective coloring:

http://www.gimp.org/downloads/

It is called GIMP, and it’s essentially a free alternative to Photoshop. And here is the tutorial for selective coloring:

http://www.gimp.org/tutorials/Selective_Color/

rob answers:

You should have either picked a 50 mm f/1.8 lens for your Canon 600D or bought a Sony dSLR so the Minolta lens would fit.

Http://www.amazon.com/Minolta-lens-Canon-mount-adapter/dp/B000YD77KE

There isn’t much you can do now, although the lens will fit physically, automatic diaphragm, auto-focusing, or any other functions will not operate correctly while using this adapter

rob answers:

Hi, as I know, youtube doesn’t support mov video fine, the best format for Youtube is H264/AVC codec .mp4 video, so if you want to upload your video on youtube within good quality, you can follow me to use Youtube Movie Maker to help you, it can auto convert any format/codec videos to the best profile and format/codec youtube videos then upload onto youtube quickly, just run Youtube Movie Maker, press “Upload Video”, add your video file in the file list, then press “Convert & Upload”, it will auto convert your video file to right profile and format then upload on youtube without any problem, and you also can use it to make youtube videos from various videos, movies, pics, musics, audios, texts, lyrics, etc, you can download it from makeyoutubevideo.com, hope it can help you.

rob answers:

T4i? Idk…. You probably need to wait for 2 years

rob answers:

Your main problem is going to be tracking. But getting a t-adapter (as already mentioned) is a key thing to get.

You also want to see if the camera has a “live view” feature. This will help speed up your focusing and framing your shot. You also want to use a laptop to connect to the camera’s USB port. Then you can use Canon’s software to control the camera and download the pictures too.

rob answers:

LOL!

rob answers:

GO FOR IXUS 80 !!!!!!!!!!

Here r three links:

T70: http://alatest.com/sony_cyber_shot_dsc_t70/digital_compact_cameras/overview/po-48537571,147/

T2: http://alatest.com/sony_cyber_shot_dsc_t2/digital_compact_cameras/overview/po-51640008,147/

IXUS 80: http://alatest.com/canon_digital_ixus_80_is/digital_compact_cameras/overview/po-53954773,147/

T70 SCORE IS 93100
T2 SCORE IS 94100
IXUS80 IS 95100

U CAN READ MANY REVIEWS FROM EXPERT AS WELL AS USERS.
LOOKS AND IMAGE QUALITY BOTH ROCKS!!!!!!!

rob answers:

Read the book came with the camera, it will tell you your camera does bulb……….and how to do it, its a marvalous book (i assume it had bulb they all do – dslrs)

get a remote or cable release, put camera on bulb, lock remote to “on” and you are doing long exposures

rob answers:

If you are just beginning with photography, I suggest a Pentax K1000 100% manual film camera with a 50mm f1.7 lens and the Owner’s Manual.

A copy of “How To Select & Use Pentax SLR Cameras” by Carl Shipman and a copy of “Object & Image: An Introduction To Photography, Third Edition” by George M. Craven will be very useful as you learn about f-stops and shutter speeds and ISO (called ASA in the older books). You’ll also begin learning about light and composition from these books.

Once you’ve mastered the K1000 then you will be ready to transition to a DSLR like the Pentax K200D or K20D. The K100D Super has been discontinued.

Yes, there will be costs associated with using film but if you buy your film on-line from:
Adorama (http://www.adorama.com) or
B&H Photo (http://www.bhphotovideo.com) its cheaper. Most 1 Hour labs run specials so you can save money on processing and printing.

Films I use on a regular basis are Fujifilm Superia Reala 100, Kodak Portra 160VC, Fujifilm PRO400H, Kodak Portra 400VC. For portraits I like Kodak Portra 160NC.

For those times when I dabble in black & white I like Ilford XP2 Super 400 or Kodak BW400N. Both are C-41 compatible so your 1 Hour lab can easily process and print them.

rob answers:

When you are talking about SLR cameras with interchangeable lenses (35mm or digital) you have to consider the camera body (where the film or memory card is placed) as a separate item from the lens.

An inexpensive lens can usually be purchased in a kit with the camera body on most intro level SLR cameras, like the Rebel (digital and 35mm). However you can later buy and attach a $5,000 USD pro telephoto lens to that same camera body and/or use the $100 USD kit lens.

If you are new to photography, buy a decent body like the rebel, but start cheap with the lens and buy more as you understand how to use them and what your needs are. That is the beauty of SLR camera systems, you buy a camera body and then you build up a library of lenses and accessories.

Don’t be confused or fooled that the better lens has the longest telephoto zoom. It would be like saying that that a sledge hammer is the best hammer, because it can exert the most force (you wouldn’t use a sledge hammer to hang a picture or shingle a roof would you?). Each lens has a different role based on how it can be used. Long telephoto lenses are good for bright light pictures of distant subjects. Try to use a long telephoto lens indoors, it won’t work too well. Try to use that lens at an indoor birthday party, in a dim room when the guy is blowing out the candles, ha good luck.

rob answers:

From what you’ve said about the Canon T1I (EOS 500D), it is limited in what you would like. That said, the price of the Canon T1I is reflective of that. As you know, the 7D is pretty new and the 5D has been out for a bit now. Some of the best sources of reviews on all these have been from websites like vimeo.com and dvinfo.net. At dvinfo.net they have forums for the 7D and 5D, but not the 500D. At vimeo.com many users are posting awesome videos (in HD) and posting camera settings and such. You can even post or e-mail the users. Great place to see and learn stuff.

I’m like you and would love to get a 5D or the 7D but by the time I save up the money, Canon will come out with another one.

rob answers:

So go to a library and get a basic book on photography and LEARN what shutter speeds, F stops an ISO mean…..

Its pretty basic stuff…in a half an hour of reading you’ll be a whiz….

rob answers:

Canon makes great cameras, the one option I think you should research and consider is the
Pentax K-x DSLR.

In the name of full disclosure, I am a Nikon user but have been reading some impressive things about this camera. I am toying with the idea of getting one as an extra camera.

Would even be interested hearing what you think if you decide to check out the links I provided below (reveiws, sample images, video). Also included some photo dealers. The Pentax K-x 12MP DSLR with 18-55mm Zoom costs about $550.

Hope this is of some help.

Mark

rob answers:

It seems that your source for the D3100 is a scam site.

This is what is included with a D3100 from a reputable dealer.

EN-EL14 Battery
MH-24 Battery Charger
DK-5 Eyepiece Cap
DK-20 Rubber Eyecap
AN-DC3 Camera Strap
BS-1 Accessory Shoe Cover
BF-1B Body Cap
ViewNX 2 CD-ROM

The Nikon D3100 also has an HDMI port

Look at those two cameras on a legitimate site like B&H Photo and compare their features. My guess after careful research, you will see that the D3100 has more features than the T1i/500D

rob answers:

When you press the shutter release half way, does the lens “hunt” – look like it is trying to focus?

How close are you to the subject? All lenses have a minimum focusing distance, if you are too close it will not focus.

What is the lighting situation? Low light situations are also very tough on autofocusing. Also, low contrast subjects – for example a wall that is all one color – are also hard for autofocus.

When all else fails, put the lens on Manual focus and then back to AF – make sure it clicks. Take the lens off and put it back on to insure good contact. If that fails, calling Canon is about the only thing left to do.

rob answers:

I would recommend you Nikon D3000 Digital SLR Camera 
10.2megapixel CCD sensor,11-point autofocus system, Fast response,Guide mode,3-inch TFT, 3 fps continuous shooting allows you to capture fast-moving action at 3 frames per second
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JCSV5I?ie=UTF8&tag=bestdeals-y-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002JCSV5I

rob answers:

While I agree with what fhotoace has to say, the Rebel XS does support the feature you are looking for. Look up the “Live View” mode in your manual.

rob answers:

I also own an XS and I would recommend you consult your owner’s manual for all details about using external flash. There are menu settings you need to use to set it up correctly. The camera will see the flash but if it doesn’t have proper instructions (thus the menu settings) on how to use it, it will probably ignore the flash.

Another thing, I don’t use external flash because I have no need, but you may have to do all your menu settings with the flash turned on so the camera can “talk” to the flash about those settings.

Also be sure to use new or fully charged batteries.

rob answers:

Well if it turns out black, that means your shutter speed is too fast.
You need to learn how to correctly balance ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture to get the results you want to have.

Shutter speed controls how long the shutter remains open, The faster the shutter, the darker the picture (considering that the SS is the only variable). The slower the shutter speed, the longer the time that light has to get to the sensor and make your picture brighter.
4000 ss is extremely fast and you will need tons of light to be able to do that.

Aperture controls how large the opening is in the lens where light moves through. The larger the aperture, the more light will get through and create a brighter picture, AS WELL AS creating a shallow Depth of Field. The smaller the aperture, the darker the picture (using the same settings where aperture is the only variable) and the larger the Depth of Field.

ISO is the sensor’s sensativity to light. ISO/ASA was in the film days. The lower the ISO, the better the pictures, but you will need more light to get a correct exposure as compared to a higher ISO. The higher the ISO, the more sensative the sensor is to light, therefore you need less light to get a correct exposure.

4000ss with no flash is any setting other than super bright sunlight on a sunny day with no clouds will really not work well.

When you are in manual mode, change the settings until your light meter is close or at the middle.

rob answers:

Try taking the lens off and putting it back on again, it could be the connection. If that does not work, take your camera to a local camera shop that sells canon (not best buy or walmart) and see if the techs there can help.

rob answers:

Everything depends on the situation and the available light. Nobody can tell you what the perfect settings are. They will change with every shot. Read some books or take a class and you will understand much more.

rob answers:

Any one of those would be a good choice, it just become a personal preference, though, I am a Canon owner I have to pick another Canon.

rob answers:

I recommend both cameras. If money is an issue, you can find the xsi cheapest at Cameta Camera , if money is not an issue the d5000 can do video which the xsi cannot but the xt1 can.

rob answers:

That sounds like a great deal, but if your plan is to resale it, then move it fast. New models could come out and change things fast.

You can sell it on ebay or craigslist but you want to check out photo.net as an option, below is a link, they have a clssified area and it is large online community of photographers.

Hope this helps.

Mark

rob answers:

If you know what you are doing in photography then the best thing you can do is read a bunch of reviews, compare the features those cameras have, and go to a store where you can try them out in person. Nobody here can tell you which camera is going to be best for you. Nikon and Canon both make good cameras and you probably can’t go wrong either way. Just make sure to consider what lenses are available for each when making a decision, since you are not only buying into a camera body but also a line of lenses. For example, I chose to go with Nikon when I was buying my first dSLR about a year ago because I wanted to get the Nikon 18-200 VR lens which is a great all-around lens to which Canon had no match.

I’m not sure if you know this, but you are comparing a camera from 2005 (D70s) with a camera that was just recently announced (XSi). If you want the latest from Nikon in this range you should be looking at the D80.

Http://www.steves-digicams.com/

http://dpreview.com/

rob answers:

Your lens has a 58mm filter thread on the front for screwing in the first items you have listed – but they are cheap and nasty! Why spend $500 on a quality camera and then screw a 10 cent piece of glass in front of the lens?

The 2nd item fits between the lens and the camera body to allow you to focus on subjects very close to the lens – eg flowers, insects. Again, these are cheap and nasty and do not transmit data between lens and camera so you will have no autofocus and no autoexposure.

Save your money and buy a good book on SLR photographer for beginners or get yourself on a class. Alternative join your local photography club and learn from other members.

rob answers:

For starters, FD lenses will not work on any EOS cameras.

All EF lenses will work on EOS cameras

EF-S lenses will only work on APS-C sensored DSLR’s …. If you own a EOS 35 mm SLR or a 5D or 1D DSLR, the EF-S lenses will damage the mirror

rob answers:

No.
You can buy an adapter to mount a canon lens to a Nikon camera. You will have no auto focus and may not have a working meter or aperture control.

rob answers:

Depends, what model is the camera?
Look at the lens. Does it have a red dot on the side near the mount?
If so then it should work. The red dot means that it is an EF Lens mount.

rob answers:

The Rebel (and generally the EOS line) all use EF lenses, the same as all the new digital cameras from Canon.

So if you can mount your lens onto your EOS Rebel XS Film, you’ll be able to mount it on any new digital Rebel, 10D-50D, 5D mk1/2, 1D(s)(mk1-3), etc. And if you want on their 1V film body too.

rob answers:

The Canon T2i is already released.

rob answers:

I own a t1i and as far as I can tell the only real differences are the 3mp that you mentioned and an
external microphone jack. Other than that they’re pretty much the same.

rob answers:

Are you trying to focus using the screen? If so, every camera is slow as heck focusing in liveview. You’ll have to use the peephole/viewfinder.

If you’re not using the screen then never mind me.

rob answers:

When i shoot videos on my t2i, i use f/1.8 – 2.8, manual focus on my subject…if your lens isn’t really fast then just try the lowest fstop

rob answers:

No you want be able to do that.

rob answers:

Http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/0300000933/EOSRXSi-EOS450D_EN.pdf
this is the address to down load the manual on page 53 there are insturction.
Press the < left button and then select Self-timer, it can set to 10 sec, 2 sec or timer with multi shots.

Good luck.

rob answers:

If it was up to me, I’d go for the D90 kit. Sure, the lens may not be as good as the 17-40mm L, but the D90 has the added bonus of being able to automatically correct chromatic abberation, corner fall-off to a neglible degree. Besides, the 18-105 has a way bigger zoom range, better for sports, and still has the wide angle for landscapes, etc. The only thing you have to watch out with 18-105mm is its distortion. Unless you’re shooting architecture and need absolutely straight lines, it shouldn’t bother you at all if you’re more into sports and landscapes.

rob answers:

Like many kit lenses, it cost more to repair than replace. Here’s several on Amazon.com for $149.

Http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?field-keywords=canon+18-55mm&url=search-alias%3Daps&x=0&y=0

And Ebay seems to have quite a few for under $80. Here’s one example.

Http://www.ebay.com/sch/Lenses-/3323/i.html?LH_PrefLoc=1&LH_ItemCondition=1000|3000&_nkw=canon%2018-55mm%20ef-s&_dmpt=Camera_Lenses&_fln=1&_ssov=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=50&_udhi=80

Hope this helps.

rob answers:

That ruler type display is your most important tool – it’s the light meter. It tells you how bright an exposure is going to be. At -2 it will be two stops underexposed, at +1 it will be one stop overexposed. You get the idea.

Observe how the displayed value on the light meter changes as you point the camera at things of different brightness, e.g. The sky outside or a lamp in your room. Currently i’s probably on the left end at -2 as you’re indoor in a low light. Outdoors it probably was at the right end, showing +2 or even beyond the scale.

Note that one doesn’t always want it to show precisely +-0, as light or dark things can mislead it. Just try taking a photo of a white wall at +-0 and you’ll see that it turns out as grey instead of white – because the camera cannot tell that it really is supposed to be white, it just tries to get you an average brightness, i.e. Grey. In that case one would intentionally overexpose a bit to get a proper white. A similar thing applies for dark things and intentional underexposure.

You can change the aperture by turning the index finger dial that otherwise changes the shutter speed while holding the AV button.

rob answers:

If it works for you cool, I just prefer to use the viewfinder (guess it comes from the “old days” of shooting film).

I don’t look down at zoom lenses, I wouldn’t trade my 70-200 f/2.8L for [most] anything and the camera light meter is a handy tool (do I rely on it and take it for the gospel? No!). As far as auto exposure, I prefer to shoot manual as much as possible (same reason I prefer to drive a stick shift car….I know what I want better than a computer/device does). I love shooting film, but due to the ever increasing “need” for speed and convenience by the world today, it is gradually being phased out, which is a shame. Film can do so much more than digital.

As far as “live view” situations… Your number, my response:

1) since my brow is on the rubber eye cup, stray light is not a problem.
2) I shoot a lot of shots with the camera on the ground doing pet photography, I just lay on the ground and can still use the viewfinder.
3) never had that issue when I use the manual focus and the DoF preview button
4) never played paparazzi, or if I needed “legitimate” shots over a wall/hedge, I used a ladder
5) between experience and the light meters (both in camera and hand held), I check the histogram rarely. I look at it on the first shot or two for comparison, but after that I don’t. It’s just a tool, like the old days of using the modeling lamps and a polaroid to check shadows on a set, not something I use for every shot (more for just setting up).
6) I don’t do much macro in small spaces like that.

rob answers:

If you already checked Canon’s site thoroughly, I don’t know of one. Consider getting a card reader. This will work with any camera you buy in the future, as well.

If you get a card reader, no additional software is necessary. This is not only faster, but it saves your camera batteries. Your computer or printer may even have a card reader built into it. I have enough USB ports that I just leave it plugged in all the time.

First of all, be sure there are some pictures on the card. Plug the card reader into an open USB port. Plug the card into the appropriate slot on your card reader. I use Photoshop Elements and as soon as I plug my card into the reader, it starts its own card reader and displays a thumbnail of every picture on the card.

If this does not happen automatically, open your photo editing software. Do whatever you usually do to open a file, but click on the selector where you can change drives. Your card reader will be assigned a new drive name that will be one letter higher than you ever saw before, such as “Drive G:” or such. Then, just double click on the name of the file you want to open and it will appear in your photo editor.

You can buy various kinds of card readers to accomodate many different memory cards pretty much anywhere that they sell digital cameras. Even WalMart has decent card readers by the major manufacturers.

rob answers:

I’ve always had good experiences with bhphotovideo.com, adorama.com, and amazon.com.

rob answers:

Sifymall.com – shopping site of Sify or
shopping.indiatimes.com … These both are good.

rob answers:

It’s called a mini usb cable, you can buy a non canon version,

they cost $4.00

google usb “mini b” cable

http://www.google.com/search?q=%22mini+b%22+usb+cable

PLEASE note that you don’t want the “mini a” type because the mini A end is rounded a little than the more angular mini b, see the differences here.
Mini A vs. Mini B

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ad/Mini_usb_AB.jpg

and the flat computer end is a “type A” usb connector
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b7/USB_TypeAB_Diagram.svg/500px-USB_TypeAB_Diagram.svg.png

rob answers:

Adorama and B&H photo video both ship to you.

rob answers:

I have the t1i (and i love it) but i would get the t3i-i am assuming that is what you meant-which is already out. The t3i has much better specs and the option for an external mic if you are interested in video recording. Apart from that the t1i is pretty much perfect for what i use it for. Also, the t3i has the lcd screen that you can change the angle so you are not limited to having to be directly behind the camera to shoot.

rob answers:

I see the T3 as a replacement for the Canon XS. I think they will discontinue the T1i and T2i, and have their new lineup something like this:
T3
T3i
60D
7D
5D Mk. 2
1D
1Ds

If you are just getting in to photography, then the T3 is a great beginner camera from what I have read so far. It hasn’t shipped yet, so I can’t judge on if it is worth it yet, but if it does what it claims it can do, then it seems pretty good.

rob answers:

Http://www.dpreview.com/news/1102/11020719canoneos1100d.asp

rob answers:

This is the only one I have heard of recently, but your entry level camera is not listed, however the T3i is.

Http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Canon_EOS_500D/T1i/Kiss_X3

READ the warning if you want Canon to ever service your camera under warranty or not

rob answers:

You missed one. The D5100 which replaced the D5000. Of those the D5100 is the best.

Http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Cameras/Compare-Camera-Sensors/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/698%7C0/(appareil2)/693%7C0/(appareil3)/664%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Nikon/(brand2)/Canon/(brand3)/Nikon

rob answers:

Below are some links to websites that are worth checking out for deals.

Hope this helps.

Mark

rob answers:

This is as legitimate as it gets. The pros do their shopping here.

Http://www.bhphotovideo.com

rob answers:

Two of the biggest are B&H Photo and Video and Adorama.

rob answers:

Myself i like staples
good prices and they have the in store warranty
i like that alot
i got my gps there and i got there 2 yrs store warranty
yr and 1/2 later when it stopped working
they replaced it no questions asked

rob answers:

The t2i is a current model Canon camera, and a good one I might add. I don’t understand what you mean by (adapted)? The camera comes standard with an 18-55 Canon lens.

Yes there are newer models but this is current. Current retail for the t2i with the 18-55 is $899.
The 55-250 retails for $230, both at B&H in New York. A large camera house that many of us regulars here buy from. That total is: $1,130 and they’re offering it at a thousand. Actually off of B&H price that’s $130 off retail.

As I see it this is an okay deal – not great but okay. Seems to me Best Buy isn’t really the best buy. They’ve apparently jacked the price of one or the other – camera or extra lens.

However, if the camera and lenses are new in their Canon boxes I’d say it’s alright.

Another thought, you didn’t mention if video matters or not. If it does this would be good. If video
really doesn’t matter there’s other Canon SLR’s out there for much less that’ll give you the same
kind of still photo quality.

rob answers:

You can wait forever, waiting for the next, next new camera.

Just buy one and start using it until you have mastered using all of if features and are competent enough to produce perfectly exposed images EVERY time you press the shutter release. Then you may want to think about upgrading … But buying every other release is a good practice

rob answers:

There are two or three things you can do, and combining them is probably the best way.

First don’t be afraid to use your camera, provided you don’t physically abuse it you aren’t going to break it!

Buy a couple of books. There is usually a “Magic Lantern” guide to most cameras, though the quality does vary a little. There are also a number of books on general Digital Photography, you’ll find a good selection on Amazon, look to see how other users have rated them. It’s much easier to digest this info from books than from websites.

Take a beginners course in photography.

Regards the specific blurriness/softness: Make sure any anti-shake mechanism on the lens is turned on. Make sure you hold the camera firmly, and try to steady your body, knees slightly bent, feet apart and in a wide V. If you can steady yourself against a solid object (wall, tree, lamp post etc). If your images are blurred, use a faster shutter speed. If your images are soft (the Depth of Field is too shallow) then use a smaller aperture. This all assumes the ISO is set to Auto. Blur and softness are in photo terms different, in time you’ll get used to the jargon – it’s one of those cases where the jargon is necessary to explain the subtleties.

rob answers:

Sounds like some dust had landed on the sensor, so my suggestion would be taking the camera to a good local camera shop to have the sensor cleaned.

rob answers:

It takes video.
It takes good pictures.
Divide the sensor size by 300 and that’s how far you can blow up the print safely (300dpi), but if it’s a good image to begin with it can go even larger.

rob answers:

There probably would be. Try the lensbaby site they may have something. It’ll have to adapt to a
EF or EF-S Canon lens mount.

rob answers:

Exactly what do you mean? Are you referring the placement of the motor?

‘Cause Canon do built the motor into each lens so that it will have the optimum performance regardless the design.

On the contrary, Nikon built the motor into the camera body. As a result, the built-in motor might be a bit under power for some lens (i.e. Large fast Zoom lens or larger telephoto lens). In some cases, a separate motor will need to install into the lens in order to move the lens elements for focusing.

Either way, both models do have multiple modes of AF. Of cause, if you use any FD lens for Canon or any lens manufactured prior mid-80s for Nikon, you will lose the AF function anyway.

rob answers:

Yes, I started out on a rebel. I own a canon 60D now and my father has a canon 5D mark II, ny cousin also has a canon 7D. Their good cameras. Don’t let the kids in your high school photography class tell you otherwise, because I know wanna be photographers/hipters love nikons for some reason (not saying those are bad cameras). Im no professional photographer but I have alot of experience and I am a film student.
Hope my opinion helps!

rob answers:

1) There is no focus point scale on this lens.
2) Lack of scale does not mean it can not focus, it has a useful focal range from 9.8 inches to infinity.

There are a couple ways to get your HF technique done.
Let the camera focus on the distant point in your composition/scene. Then shoot several photos, backing the focus ring off by 1/8 to 1/16 turn each shot (the very front ring on the lens, make sure AF is off after setting the distant focus).

Keep track of the “Back-off” and f-stop that gives you the best result.

Or, use the scene preview button to close the iris (aperture) and visually adjust your depth of field. Note that this will cut the light to the viewfinder so it works best in bright scenes. This is the button on the camera near the base of the lens, at about 5:00 if looking directly at the lens side of the camera.

rob answers:

It’s actually very easy to do.

This guide should help you out…

Http://www.photoguides.net/light-graffiti

As far as changing your aperture goes, just change the dial on your camera to either A or M. A is Aperture priority and M is manual mode.
You can find out more about these settings here…

Http://www.photoguides.net/understanding-your-camera

Hope that helps
–
Ash Davies

rob answers:

If you are using your 18-55mm lens, set your camera on a tripod, take a picture, then move a bit so that the left side of the new frame overlaps what you already took in the previous frame. Do that until you go 180 or 360 degrees, depending on what kind of panoramic shot you want. Go to your computer, upload the pictures, and stitch them together using photoshop or a like program.

rob answers:

I dont know what this could be as i dont have a rebel but from what I understand is that the rebel does not have a motor in it, but the lenses do, for it to be autofocus. This might mean that something wrong with the autofocus in the lens is broken. If you dropped it this could have happened. Do you have another lens to try on it. Maybe take the lens off and then put it back on. In some cameras there is also a switch to turn AF and MF on and off, try that if it has it and good luck

rob answers:

No camera can focus in complete darkness. The AF sensor needs enough light to provide some contrast on the subject, just as you need to see enough contrast to focus manually. I often shoot documentary photos after building fires for arson and insurance investigations. Burned out buildings are often pitch black other than light coming in through open door/windows or holes cut into the roof by firefighters.

One trick a crime scene photographer taught me was simply to keep a small flashlight handy. Put the camera in one-shot AF or manual focus. Shine the light on the point at which you want to focus. Use the AF or manual focus to get everything nice and sharp, then shoot. Works every time and works especially well in buildings where there smoke, soot and other particulates in the air make it hard to photograph a scene because your AF can’t see through the junk in the air to provide accurate focus.

rob answers:

They generally freeze the action like that by using an external flash. By the way, if you don’t understand the correlation between shutter speed and a moving subject, you really need to get a good book about DSLR photography and read it. That will take you a lot farther than asking questions here. I highly recommend a book called “Understanding Exposure” It is not very expensive and is the go to book for a lot of amateurs with some experience like you.

rob answers:

There are different things that can cause a blurry image. The most common problem is taking a photograph at too low a shutter speed. The rule of thumb is that the shutter speed should be at least 1/focal length or faster. For example, if you are shooting with your 18-55mm lens, and it is zoomed out all the way to 55mm, you should shoot at 1/55 seconds (1/60 is the nearest your camera can use). Even better is shooting at 1/90 of a second, or 1/125.

If you typically use your camera in one of the fully automatic modes, it may be giving you too slow a shutter speed, especially indoors without a flash. Check your manual for shutter priority – also called Time Value (Tv on the camera settings). This lets you select the shutter speed and will have the camera figure out the rest.

rob answers:

The manual isn’t saying that at all, it recommends you install the software before you use the camera, thats all, it will still work.

If you want the latest updates for the software, including those to run on windows 7, try here:

http://software.canon-europe.com/products/0010610.asp

rob answers:

They are great lenses to get started with, they’re both excellent lenses, clear and sharp. Also I’d add one very inexpensive additional lens, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 it’s sharp as a tack and a great first prime lens to learn with ($85) …

Happy shooting.

rob answers:

You will see an unbelieveable improvement in your upgrade from a point and shoot to an SLR. The size of the sensor is very important – not to mention that you will find the lens quality is vastly superior. This is not 100% applicable in your situation, but it is educational nonetheless: http://www.flickr.com/photos/samfeinstein/476181751/

Nikon D40 vs. Canon EOS 350D (Rebel XT)

I have never used a Canon EOS 350D, so I can’t actually compare the cameras, but I favor the D40 because it has a spotmeter and the 350D doesn’t. Although the D40 seems small, it is practically the exact same size as the 350D.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebyside&cameras=canon_eos350d%2Cnikon_d40&show=all

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/page17.asp

tells us that the Canon 350D meter calibration is off by about 1/3 of a stop. This would not really present any problems, except that it suggests “something” to me about the quality, since the Nikon and Pentax are dead on.

Scroll on down the page for image comparisons. The D40 is clearly sharper and shows less noise at all ISO settings.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/page18.asp shows us that both handle shadows equally, but the D40 clips the highlights by about 1/3 of a stop.

This next paragraph directly addresses your concerns about the 8 MP vs. 6 MP issue. You will see that it’s not so much the number of the pixels (as long as they are in the same league), but what you do with them that counts.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/page21.asp shows a side-by-side of studio images. The 8 MP of the Canon 350D at least put the camera on equal footing with the Nikon D40 for image quality, but you have to take note that the Rebel XT is shot at ISO 100 and the Nikon is shot at it lowest setting of ISO 200. I think the Canon images may look a little better, but we know from the prior page that under equal lighting levels, the Canon will start to break up before the Nikon.

The reviewer says, “While it is possible to pick areas of the image which lend some credence to the EOS 350D’s 34% pixel count advantage it’s clear that the average observer would not notice these differences and that you would need a very large output size for any of them to become visible.”

Check this out…

Http://dpreview-img.fotki.com/gallery/canoneos350d_samples1/originals/img_4068-raw-dpp.jpg is taken by the Canon 350D with a 17 mm focal length at f/6.3, 1/80th of a second, ISO 400 using RAW.

Http://dpreview-img.fotki.com/gallery/nikond40_samples/originals/dsc_1206.jpg is taken with the Nikon D40 with an 18 mm focal length at f/4.5, 1/80th of a second, ISO 400 using jpeg.

The point of focus for the Canon photo is a bit deeper than it is for the Nikon, but even having 8MP and using RAW and a smaller aperture, I think the Canon image breaks up a lot more than the Nikon. You can barely make out the features on the face of the gentleman in the background. Is this the camera or the superiority of the Nikon 17-55 lens, which so many of us here praise???

Okay, I’ve made my stance clear. I like the Nikon D40 better than the Canon EOS 350D, so here’s my general review of the D40.

The Nikon D40 is a great little camera, very easy to use and quite reasonably priced. It has a few “consumer friendly” totally automatic modes that make it very easy to use, but still offers total photographic control when you are ready to take charge. It will get you in the Nikon family which is a great place to be. If you buy accessories and lenses, you will be able to use everything on any Nikon that you might upgrade to later on.

Check out Nikon’s “Picturetown” promotion, where they handed out 200 D40′s in Georgetown, SC. Http://www.stunningnikon.com/picturetown/

Here are a few reviews, in case you have not read them yet. Be sure to note that they are several pages long and some of the reviews also have some sample images that you can look at.

Http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2007_reviews/nikon_d40.html

http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/3756/camera-test-nikon-d40.html

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/d40-recommendations.htm

I hate to see people slam the camera because it can’t autofocus with older Nikon lenses. It is true that there is a “slight problem” with older Nikon lenses not autofocusing on the D40, but if you do not own a bag full of older lenses, it is not going to be a problem. It is barely a problem anyhow. If you check www.nikonusa.com for “AF-S” lenses, which are ALL 100% compatible with the D40, you will find 23 lenses, including 7 “VR” (vibration Reduction) lenses and one true macro lens with “VR”. There are another 25-plus lenses in the current catalog that provide all functions except autofocus as well as many (possibly dozens) “out of print” lenses that will work just as well. In addition, although these lens will not autofocus, most of them will still give focus confirmation. From the D40 manual: “If the lens has a maximum aperture of f/5.6 of faster, the viewfinder focus indicator can be used to confirm whether the portion of the subject in the selected focus area is in focus. After positioning the subject in the active focus area, press the shutter release button halfway and rotate the lens focusing ring until the in-focus indicator is displayed.” (See http://www.members.aol.com/swf08302/nikonafs.txt for a list of AF-S lenses.)

The D40 only has 3 autofocus zones arranged horizontally at the center, 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions. This might be considered a limitation, but realistically, most people will find this perfectly adequate, especially if you are moving up from a point and shoot with only a center zone.

You can get the D40 with the 18-55 kit lens at B&H Photo available through Yahoo! Shopping or at 1-800-622-4987) for $525 (June 2007). Add a Lexar Platinum (60X speed) card for $25 or 2 GB for $35. Or – get the D40 with 18-135 lens and 1 GB Lexar card for $750. They also have used D40′s from $475.

And yet… Clearly these are both very good cameras. What it all comes down to is which one YOU feel better about. Go to a camera shop and pick them up and see.

rob answers:

The Canon EOS DSLR’s and Nikon DSLR’s are based upon 35mm SLR bodies designed to shoot still images.

They do not shoot video at all. The people who own DSLR’s buy video camera’s if they need or want to shoot videos.

You will find that some of the SLR-like cameras will shoot video.

Look here for something like that if your really want to have the video function on your camera.

Http://www.dpreview.com

A current offering is on this link
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilms8000fd/

rob answers:

If you want auto-focus in the video mode, only the Nikon D3100 and Nikon D7000 can do that.

Here is a sample using the slightly more expensive D7000

Sample video using the D7000

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMbBKukJzBk

rob answers:

Go with what you know. If you own a canon and love it then maybe you should stick with it. You know the reputation and how the camera will function.